Friday, October 14, 2011

Day 9 - Sunrise, Sunset and Cheetahs


LEON:  Sunrise.  Sunset.  Sunrise.  Sunset.

All Shutterbugs move to this cycle so aptly sung by Tevya in Fiddler on the Roof.  They can’t help themselves.  There is only one thing better than the perfect scene of plant, animal, or scenery.  That would of course be the same exact scene at Sunrise.  Or maybe it is Sunset?  But with the unchanging cycle of sunrise to sunset, they never really have to make up their minds.  If the sunrise pix weren’t quite magnificent, you can always return just before sunset.  The lighting to their trained eyes is significantly different.  Dedicated Shutterbugs, who never under any other circumstances, could ever be forced out of bed before the crack of noon, have been observed by scientists to have forsaken REM sleep hours before dawn.  Their snoring ceases; their breathing quickens.  Their eyelids begin to pop open, first arrhythmically, then with slow steady rhythm, until finally their eyes are widely open and all blinking has ceased.  The eyes can then be observed darting to the bedroom clock.  Finally, unable to control the urgency of their obsessions, they pop out of bed, grab all the cameras in sight and run out of doors.

Those of us who are immune to Shutterbug, or otherwise unaffected by this virus, must be very tolerant of those who are diagnosed with it.  They cannot help themselves.  The tactic of most First Responders to a pre-sunrise episode of Shutterbug, is to roll over in bed and begin to snore very loudly.  This tactic is normally ineffective, but does give the FR a few more minutes of sleep.  The next tactic of most who have dealt with the disease for extended periods is to first turn on the coffee pot.  It will be a long day!  The next step is normally to stand under the shower, preferably a cold one, for at least 15 minutes.  This will will buy him/her a little bit of time while the infected person gathers ever more camera gear and begins to fill the car / truck / bus, etc.

Any photographic tour must have guides who are trained to treat outbreaks of Sunrise or Sunset Shutterbug virus.  It is my belief that African tour guides, particularly those on our tour, are trained to encourage and cater to this malady.  We have had lots of opportunity for pix, and every shutterbug is smiling.  Perhaps the true treatment is to encourage this mild, even benign, form of Shutterbug induced dementia.  After all, it keeps them smiling, laughing, and often produces pictures that will bring smiles back to our faces when we view them (again and again), throughout the years.

BARB:  I was awake early, again, this morning... and it wasn’t because of Leon’s snoring.  It was because we had to break camp (which means taking down our tents and loading all of our belongings on the truck) and be ready to head to a remote spot for a perfect sunrise.  I have been waking before our alarm every day.  I guess it’s because of the promise of something wonderful for the day.  A sunrise, mountains, petroglyphs, animals, whatever is on the schedule. 

This Overland safari tour is focused on photography and those that are proud of being called a ‘shutterbug’.  Our guide, Brett, is a professional photographer, as well as a trained naturalist.  He is holding photography classes to teach us all to be better.

Day 9 - Cheetah Conservancy

LEON:  We are at a farm that hosts Cheetahs, both wild and tame.  In Southern Africa, farmers consider cheetahs to be dangerous pests, and kill them whenever they are discovered on their properties.  One farming family began to take in these animals and try to save them.  Most of the animals are wild ones that have become somewhat domesticated.  They still make wild kills, but also are willing to take meat that is given to them.  Three of the cats were raised from infancy and are considered to be tame. 

On the first part of our visit, we went to the farmhouse where the three tame cats roam the yard freely.  These cats we will be allowed to touch, pet, and even to hug.  Of course, there are great hopes of fantastic photos flying around in every Shutterbugs heart.  We arrive at the farm.  These may be tamed cats, but they are not that far from their wild parents.  They are sleek and powerful, moving their legs and haunches with an odd, almost disjointed, motion.  They are also quite comfortable and relaxed with our presence.  Not me.  Not here trapped inside their cage.  I prefer to be on the other side of the fence. These are killers who have for the moment decided that we are not to be their next meal.  But who knows when tea-time is for these guys.  A little pre-dinner appetizer might suddenly seem just perfect to them. 

I am suddenly, and very rationally, quite glad to be in the company of Shutterbugs.  Have you seen them on the prowl of a great photo?  They must have the correct camera and lens for the perfect moment.  They spend hours discussing these things, and agonizing over what to bring to each event.  Afraid to leave any combination of equipment behind, they are laden with pounds and pounds of gear hanging from their necks, and large three legged devices known as tripods in their hands.  Do you now understand my reasoning?  Think of the weights that are placed on horses in handicap racing.  When the Cheetah decides it is African Snack Time, there is no chance of outrunning an animal that has been clocked in the wild at speeds of over 70 mph.  But really, I don’t have to outrun the Cheetah, I only have to outrun our camera laden, now handicapped, Shutterbugs who will be trying to photograph that cheetah right up to the final moment.

Shortly after arriving, these relaxed animals are suddenly startled by loud and long rumbling and clanging noises.  A storage shelf of irrigation piping has collapsed in the nearby barn.  Suddenly, these “tame” animals are on high alert and so is Leon.  Their bodies are perfectly erect, muscles obviously taut, their heads looking this way and that.  They are ready for fight or flight.  And I am ready for FLIGHT.  Although they say that in Africa only food runs.  I am checking out the nearest gate, and looking for Barb, not wanting her to be the target of their fear.  It takes quite some time before the animals are calm enough for us to approach them.  Some great photos and videos are taken.  And Barb gets to pet the big “kitty cat”. 

Feeding time for the wild animals will be about 6:00 pm (or 1800 hours here).  Just before that time we climb into an open trailer and head into another field to find these cheetahs.  There are about 15 kept here, but not all will show up for chow time.  Those that have made a fresh, wild kill will not bother to come.  Again, we are not disappointed.  As many as 10 or 12 cheetahs came to be fed.  That story is best told by the photos and videos.  Suffice to say that it is very evident once again, who in this African savannah is predator, and who is prey.



BARB:  I love cats.  Anyone who knows me well knows that I love cats.  So, to have this opportunity to pet a kitty, no matter how large or dangerous it is, is not an opportunity I could, or would, pass up.

A domesticated house cat that is being stroked, massaged, and petted has a soft purr like an electric fan.  A cheetah’s “purr” is more like a turbo charged Porsche.  And what a sweet sound it is.  A domesticated cat’s tongue is pretty scratchy when they lick you but a cheetah’s tongue is like sand paper - but I think that the rash on my arm will heal pretty quickly. 

Leon probably thought that I was a little, no make that totally, insane wanting the perfect cheetah-petting photo.  The next cheetah’s we will see will be in the wild so this was my one-and-only chance to play with them up front and personal.  But he is a patient man, thank goodness.

After our playing and petting time at the Farm, we headed out on the back of a truck to watch the ‘wild ones’ have their dinner.  You should have seen us ‘shutterbugs’ vying for the perfect position to get our shots.  You would have thought that we were playing a game of rugby back there and I may have a few bruises.   I took over two hundred photos today and several long videos of the feed-fest for us to enjoy.

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