Tonight, we will be having dinner at Le Quartier Français, a small award winning restaurant in the heart of the Winelands Franschhoek Valley. We are told that it is South Africa's version of Napa’s French Laundry.
Tomorrow, we check out of the Dock House and move to the beach town of Sea Point. We will meet with our safari tour guide and the rest of our group. We depart early the next day on our three week journey to Victoria Falls, traveling through the Western Cape of South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, and into Zambia to the Falls. This is a ‘roughing it’ tour focused on photography. If you want to follow along with the "Desert Wanderer" 21 day itinerary, you can check it out at Africa-in-Focus website.
Internet availability at the camps is described as “internet available some of the time”. We will post as we can. But we will be thinking of you all as we travel.
Friday, September 30, 2011
A Day of Wine and Roses
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| The Cape Winelands |
We drove to the wine country with the intention of going to three different areas. But we only made it to one of them. SA has been making wines for hundreds of year in this area, but they are just starting to get international recognition. Barb loves her wines, and for better or worse, my South African cousin is a local chef. She had given Barb lots of recommendations of wineries; and then solicited her friends for more. With a list like that, Barb is much like a kid in the candy store. But I am going to stop here and let her tell that story.
BARB: When planning our trip to Africa, touring the Winelands had to be on the itinerary. I love wine but more importantly, I love really good wine. There are nine wine regions in South Africa that are known for their wines. If you have ever done wine tasting in Napa/Sonoma, Walla Walla, the Willamette, etc., you know that the wineries can be spread over a wide area and there are hundreds of wineries to choose from. When limited for time, you need to be choosy so that you are tasting wine you hope to enjoy. I did research before I left home to find the best region and wineries to visit. I talked to the wine shops here in Cape Town to get their opinion. The most popular regions were Stellenbosch, Paarl and the Franschoek valley. Soon after we arrived in Cape Town, I pulled out my map and started circling the top recommended wineries. Then, I looked at it noting how far away some were and the concentration in certain areas. I had to narrow it down to something that was realistic for us. First, you can only taste so much wine in a day, and secondly, as we are limited for time, I didn’t want to ask Leon to crisscross the Cape. We chose Stellenbosch and eight wineries.
The first winery, De Toren, was one that Cate recommended as one of her favorites. When we arrived, we were told that they only do private cellar tours by the winemaker that have been pre-arranged. So much for my planning... I could have sworn that I read somewhere that they had tasting room hours. I must have looked sad and forlorn after my ‘but,we’ve come so far, and today is our only day for the Winelands, and your winery has been so highly recommended, and, and...’. The nice young lady said that there was another private group coming in at 4 pm and we could join it if we wanted. “Yes, thank you, we’ll be back.”
We arrived at the next winery on our list with such high hopes and anticipating wonderful wine. I forgot to mention that I am the taster and Leon is the designated driver. I will have him taste only what I love and would want to purchase (sort of like the royal taster making sure there is no poison in the wine). What a disappointment, and the winery was very highly rated, but everyone’s palate is different so on to the next winery. Again,a disappointment and we are beginning to get concerned.
These wineries were outside the ‘cluster’ so we had to drive quite a while to get to the next. The scenery is beautiful with the rolling hills of grape vines, the massive strawberry farms, the mountains in the back ground and the signs of Spring all around us. One long, narrow road was lined with fruit trees that were in full blossom. Another long road’s fences were covered in masses of climbing white roses.
Next stop, Rust en Vrede. It is on a beautiful estate and was the first South African winery to make it
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| Now that is good wine... |
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| Woven Hanging Nests |
With our spirits high that we’ve finally found some nice wine, we set off for the next one with high hopes of more along the way. No such luck. My comments in my “Wine Notes” book say “not good, not good, best so far but not good, etc.”. By now we are hungry so we leave the ‘cluster’ and head to the little town of Stellenbosch. After lunch we have a little time that we could head back out in search of more great wine. Maybe there are some on our list that would have been wonderful but I am ready to call it a day. We’ll stop by De Toren on our way out and then head back to Cape Town.
De Toren is a small winery that bottles 7,000 bottles a year of just two wines, “Z” and “Fusion V”. Once the party arrives that had pre-arranged the tour, we we all gather outside overlooking the vines in the fields for Charles the winemaker to explain their planting process. It is fascinating and I learn things that I have never heard before at other wineries I have visited around the world. We move over to the processing area where he describes how they gently carry the grapes to the first step in the process. They treat the grapes like a baby.
We then head inside the cellar where we hear the rest of the processing story before heading into the tasting room where we taste the “Z” an “Fusion V”. Both of the wines are wonderful and Leon is tasting as well. We didn’t need to visit eight wineries so get in the full Wineland touring experience. I wish that I hadn’t had to taste so many bad wines earlier in the day but what counts is that we found a few great wines. It was a great way to end a day.
LEON: I told Barb that the last wine tour of the day was one of the best we have ever done. And I got
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| Charles the Winemaker |
one of those responses that we married guys long for, but seldom get: “ Yes, it was. You’re absolutely right”. Let me tell you about the young guy that gave the tour. His name is Charles and he is a graduate of the local University’s Oenology school. When he talks of the vineyard and the grapes, it’s like hearing an engineer talk who loves his work. I never knew it could be so technical. This is an new vineyard. Before the fields were ever planted, they were first scanned by an aircraft with infrared sensors, at different times of the day and in different seasons, to determine how the soil was heating. Another scan somehow looked several feet into the earth to analyze the soil for them. From this they determined which grapes should be in which field. The soil scan told them how the roots would thrive in the soil. From that they determined how far apart each row needed to be planted - some close and some farther. The vines themselves are grafted hybrids - the roots from American plants and the vine itself from the French plants. The American roots are pest resistant, and the French branches will produce the grape. As the grapes grow, the fields are scanned again to know when to harvest. The maps of the scan are kept by the tanks with each section marked to show where the grapes came from.
And then there is the “gravity tank”. This vineyard doesn’t use water to wash the grape, nor pumps to
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| Gravity Tank |
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Cape Esperance / Cape of Good Hope or Cabo dos Tormentas / Cape of Storms
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Yesterday, we rented a car with the intention of driving to the wine country. But we slept in! So, instead, we decided to drive down to do the Cape and Peninsula tour. Like everything else one does, it ended up taking much longer than we expected. And there was often excitement provided by the GPS and the maps not agreeing. But the most excitement and thrills and laughter was provided by none other than that highly skilled test pilot, Barb’s husband. Flying airplanes is proving to be much easier than driving well on the wrong side of the road. Of course, it’s not me on the wrong side of the road. It’s the rest of the drivers on these South African roads. The only country I ever seen whose drivers were more insistent than these were in England. So, despite my efforts, all of the other drivers keep herding me to the opposite side than I want to be on. The steering wheel and the gear shift patterns are all wrong. But that seems to work out. I tried to signal many cars today that I intended to turn. But somehow they did not recognize my windshield wipers on high as a valid signal. I blinked my bright beams at someone to say I saw them, but shortly afterwards all forward visibility was obscured by the windshield washer water. My co-pilot is alternately convulsed with laughter or gasping in fear. Her timely gasps have saved us several times.
We saw some surprising things today. And they weren’t all oceanographic or geological. I was here in South Africa in the 80’s. At the game farm that our crew visited that trip, we were privileged to watch some tortoises procreate. It’s a very slow process. Today, Barb and I stopped to observe ostriches at an ostrich farm. There was one just by the fence flapping his wings almost as if he were doing a ritual dance. As he danced, he moved closer and closer to the fence. Suddenly I noticed there was another ostrich also facing the road, but lying on the ground. So, we have empirical proof that ostriches breed in captivity. And I can tell you that they are much faster than tortoises.
BARB: The Cape Peninsula is beautiful in the wildness about it. We drove along the coast and I kept
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In addition to seeing baboons, mating ostriches, and antelopes, we walked up to the top of Cape Point. Then we walked out to the Cape of Good Hope. Both of these Capes are wonders of nature how they jut straight up out of the wild sea. I can see why the original name of the Cape of Good Hope was Cape of Storms. I think I took several hundred photos of them.
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| Leon standing on bluff of Cape Point with Cape of Good Hope in background |
LEON: I have to echo Barb’s comment on the wildness of this coast. There are literally thousands of shipwrecks within a few hundred miles. Easily visible just off the Cape is a group of rocks with the waves crashing again and again upon them. It was the site of one of the bad wrecks in the early twentieth century. It is so easy to imagine the sea throwing a ship up against those rocks again and again and again. In the wreck above, all but two of the lifeboats made it safely around the Cape and into False Bay.
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
A Walk in the Park
LEON: We are sitting in our room at the hotel. There is African music coming from across the street. The large ferris wheel is in the window. And we are both relaxing from a great afternoon, but a frustrating morning. First, the great afternoon. We went for a walk into town. There is a pedestrian path that follows the shoreline. When we asked at the desk about walking or using a taxi, they recommended the walk. We are glad that we did so. The sun was out again and it was quite warm, unless you were by the shore and in the wind - which was the first part of the walk. But it was still fun. We walked by the bright red, SIXTY foot statue of a Lego man with a party horn in his mouth. But once you are up close, you will discover that it is actually made from Coca Cola bottle crates, which seems quite ingenious. As we approached the downtown, the path ceased. But here in South Africa, the cars actually stop for pedestrians (just like in Winslow). Once in town, we headed for the Green Market Square and the Museums. Green Market is an open air market of African Crafts. It is well worth the visit for there is a large variety of items of differing quality and value. Here, is a place that makes it obvious that Cape Town is not a European City. In many parts of the town, it is easy to forget that you are in Africa. But even in those areas, there is a wide diversity of ethnic heritages and dress. Almost everyone speaks English and seem excited to talk to Americans. There are a variety of good stores selling higher end African works in the same area.
After the market, it was off to the Parliament Bldg., the Company’s Garden, and the South Africa Museum. The Company Garden is a very pleasant walking park similar to what can be found in other great cities. At the very southern end, there is the SA Museum. It is filled with artifacts from all periods of history and pre-history. Dinosaur bones, whale skeletons, stuffed lions all serve to remind me of how small an animal a human is. Many of the settings quickly remind you of how vicious the predators can be, from early dinosaurs to todays big cats. The presentations of current African predators makes me want to stay in town and never ever go out into the wilds of Africa. And I am currently reading a book that talks of how mean-tempered and vicious rhino and even zebra can be. These stuffed predators are shown ripping apart their prey as the blood and guts drip around them. I am reminded of the saying that, ”in Africa there are only two types of animals - predators and prey”. Now questioning the wisdom of sleeping in a tent in darkest Africa,
I begin to wonder if I can sleep in the bus while on safari.
This "Jonkeria" is from the Karoo region of SA and roamed the planet 260 million years ago, 60 million years before the dinosaur. It was an impressive Museum.
This morning was another technological “challenge”. Don’t the modern words for something malfunctioning frustrate you just in themselves? My Global Cell phone mysteriously stopped working. There was no service at all. It looked like the account had been turned off back in the States. Hours of frustration later, I found that to be exactly what had happened. “Your sim card was turned off, sir”. (Just what is a sim card and why do I need it?). The polite young lady pushed some magical buttons on her keyboard and my phone began to work . That was after hours of trying to get thru to the support system first via the computer, and then later by phone. Of course there are toll free numbers to use for that call, but I had misplaced them (another story in itself). And the numbers to call only worked one time out the eight that I tried. And the Support people don’t really work 24/7. And the young lady when I finally got hold of her had the audacity to tell me that I should have used my (NON-functioning) phone to call. After first spluttering into the phone, I bit my tongue and reminded her that the reason I was calling was that it did not work, or I wouldn’t be calling her.
But the day ended well. We picked up a little rental car in order to tour the Winelands and the Cape peninsula. They drive on the British side of the street here. I eased into traffic coming out of the rental car garage, shifted to second and immediately signaled my intention to turn right by turning on my Windshield Wipers at full speed. In the driver’s seat, Dopey is wondering why the wipers are on, but can’t quite figure out how to turn them off because he is task-saturated trying to turn and not go on the right/wrong side of the road. My biggest worry was that some pedestrian would assume I knew what I was doing and step confidently in front of the car. When people are stressed, their vision narrows and their hearing turns off. In this situation Barb knows not to be cool and calm. She should be actively co-piloting. But my “co-pilot” is laughing too hard to be of any help. But, between her and the GPS, we get safely to the hotel, located on this hidden little street. Technological challenges and all, it is still a great day here.
BARB: Tomorrow’s weather is supposed to be lovely. So, we are taking advantage of the sun and warmth to venture about an hour, or so, east of Cape Town to the Winelands (SA’s version of “The Wine Country”). I was never a Boy Scout, but my mantra is also “be prepared”. I am armed with a long list of great wineries that we got before we left (from Leon’s cousin Cate who lives in Johannesburg and who we will be visiting after the safari tour). Cate is an African chef (even though she is from Louisiana) and knows her wine. She also has friends who know great wine because I received emails from some of them with their top South African wines.
Leon is probably feeling pretty confident that we won’t be carrying back any wine (remember the rule, “You can buy anything you want, as long as you carry it.”). But I am pretty sure there are ways to work around that. However, my real purpose tomorrow is to learn about the great South African wines.
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| 60' Coca Cola Man |
After the market, it was off to the Parliament Bldg., the Company’s Garden, and the South Africa Museum. The Company Garden is a very pleasant walking park similar to what can be found in other great cities. At the very southern end, there is the SA Museum. It is filled with artifacts from all periods of history and pre-history. Dinosaur bones, whale skeletons, stuffed lions all serve to remind me of how small an animal a human is. Many of the settings quickly remind you of how vicious the predators can be, from early dinosaurs to todays big cats. The presentations of current African predators makes me want to stay in town and never ever go out into the wilds of Africa. And I am currently reading a book that talks of how mean-tempered and vicious rhino and even zebra can be. These stuffed predators are shown ripping apart their prey as the blood and guts drip around them. I am reminded of the saying that, ”in Africa there are only two types of animals - predators and prey”. Now questioning the wisdom of sleeping in a tent in darkest Africa,
I begin to wonder if I can sleep in the bus while on safari.
This "Jonkeria" is from the Karoo region of SA and roamed the planet 260 million years ago, 60 million years before the dinosaur. It was an impressive Museum.This morning was another technological “challenge”. Don’t the modern words for something malfunctioning frustrate you just in themselves? My Global Cell phone mysteriously stopped working. There was no service at all. It looked like the account had been turned off back in the States. Hours of frustration later, I found that to be exactly what had happened. “Your sim card was turned off, sir”. (Just what is a sim card and why do I need it?). The polite young lady pushed some magical buttons on her keyboard and my phone began to work . That was after hours of trying to get thru to the support system first via the computer, and then later by phone. Of course there are toll free numbers to use for that call, but I had misplaced them (another story in itself). And the numbers to call only worked one time out the eight that I tried. And the Support people don’t really work 24/7. And the young lady when I finally got hold of her had the audacity to tell me that I should have used my (NON-functioning) phone to call. After first spluttering into the phone, I bit my tongue and reminded her that the reason I was calling was that it did not work, or I wouldn’t be calling her.
But the day ended well. We picked up a little rental car in order to tour the Winelands and the Cape peninsula. They drive on the British side of the street here. I eased into traffic coming out of the rental car garage, shifted to second and immediately signaled my intention to turn right by turning on my Windshield Wipers at full speed. In the driver’s seat, Dopey is wondering why the wipers are on, but can’t quite figure out how to turn them off because he is task-saturated trying to turn and not go on the right/wrong side of the road. My biggest worry was that some pedestrian would assume I knew what I was doing and step confidently in front of the car. When people are stressed, their vision narrows and their hearing turns off. In this situation Barb knows not to be cool and calm. She should be actively co-piloting. But my “co-pilot” is laughing too hard to be of any help. But, between her and the GPS, we get safely to the hotel, located on this hidden little street. Technological challenges and all, it is still a great day here.
BARB: Tomorrow’s weather is supposed to be lovely. So, we are taking advantage of the sun and warmth to venture about an hour, or so, east of Cape Town to the Winelands (SA’s version of “The Wine Country”). I was never a Boy Scout, but my mantra is also “be prepared”. I am armed with a long list of great wineries that we got before we left (from Leon’s cousin Cate who lives in Johannesburg and who we will be visiting after the safari tour). Cate is an African chef (even though she is from Louisiana) and knows her wine. She also has friends who know great wine because I received emails from some of them with their top South African wines.
Leon is probably feeling pretty confident that we won’t be carrying back any wine (remember the rule, “You can buy anything you want, as long as you carry it.”). But I am pretty sure there are ways to work around that. However, my real purpose tomorrow is to learn about the great South African wines.
Monday, September 26, 2011
Two more great days in Cape Town
LEON: Yesterday was a tour of the City and Table Mountain. Today was used as a slow rest day emphasizing planning and preparation.
It was a great Seattle style summer day. Temperature in the mid 70’s (mid 25’s C.), slightly windy, and abundant Sunshine. The latitude here is about 34 degrees South. That’s about the same as Los Angeles is North; and the month is equivalent to end of March / beginning of April. With the sun at that latitude, the solar heating is about the same as LA., EXCEPT, the ozone layer is thinner here. So, the potential for FEELING warm, even on a very moderate day is greater than in our part of the hemisphere. The city tour took us in a big circle around the downtown part of Cape Town. As with most city tours, you get a lot more of the history of the city than is in most guidebooks. The tour bus was the best kind, a double decker that is partly open. And the policy of the tour is Hop On - Hop Off. That makes it nice to get off and see the things you want to see, for as long as you want to do so. The city was founded in the 1600’s but has little architecture to show that. What is really interesting is how the names of the streets and some of the structures reflect how far inland the shoreline used to be. Evidently the Dutch put all of those technical skills at building dikes and reclaiming land to work here. In doing so, they gained hundreds of hectares of land that a lot of the city is now built on. Our real goal was to get to Table Mountain. It is the iconic landmark of Cape Town, and is a more marvelous a sight than the pictures can portray. At breakfast, our new friends Bob Seltzer and Peter (??) from the Boston, Mass area told us of climbing the trail up the mountain. They were complaining about how difficult it had been for them, but of course they are also bagging a little since they did make it to the top. Clearly implied was that climbing the mountain was the only truly honest way to get to the top. The tram way was clearly in the same category as handicapped parking - not to be used by any healthy person.
When we arrived at the end of the road below the mountain top, we could clearly see the top, the lack of shade any where, and the faint mountain goat trail that initially went straight up the mountain. Far up towards the top, there were switchbacks since the sloping mountain side had morphed into a cliff side. At this point, I informed Barbara that the trail looked relatively easy and I was not sure why Bob and Pete had spoken of it as they did. However, I reminded her that I was a great admirer of the type of engineering expertise required to surmount the technical challenges of a nearly vertical tramway. As a an engineer myself, I felt I needed to investigate how those difficulties were resolved with the technology of the early 1920’s . I asked her if she would mind humoring me and taking the tram up to the top instead of walking. Barb is a gracious woman and managed to indulge my request without once accusing me of wimping out (nor did she thank me).
The tram is an exciting ride up, and the car floor in a disconcerting way revolves once completely around during the short ride up. And as expected the view was amazing. On the top, one expects to see a great distance, but it is still amazing. The paths are rugged, as is the terrain. There are sheer drops. Looking North, it is possible to finally understand the layout of the city that we had just driven through. Looking South, one cannot see Cape Point due to the high terrain in between. Looking East, it is possible to see Simon’s Town, and False Bay, but not possible to see Cape Agulhas, which is the most southern point of Africa.
After three hours of walking (btw, our new 'five finger' shoes are great hiking shoes) and enjoying the views (plus over 500 pix taken by Miss Shutterbug), we decided it was enough. I agree now with everyone who told us that Table Mountain is a must-visit place if you’re in Cape Town. One aside: it’s okay to drink the water there, but I would not recommend the food!
The trip back to the hotel, completing a clockwise tour of the metro area, gave us great views of the local beaches. Several of them are beautiful, but very few are safe for swimming.
One of the troubles with traveling is adapting to the local time zone. I am still tired at the wrong times of the day, and awake in the middle of the night. Both of us have been staying up until well past midnight until we finally realize we need to rest. But last night, Barb slept that sleep of innocence (or exhaustion) that we all wish for. She was awake one moment, sound asleep the next, and even her head did not change position for the next 9 hours! I only know this because I woke eight - ten times during the night. When she comes down for breakfast, Grumpy is on his third cup of coffee trying to get the old body moving, but Barb looks like someone who just left the health spa. The now highly caffeinated Grumpy is truly envious.
Today (Monday), we stayed around the hotel, went to the V&A mall, and Barb completed the planning of our remaining five useful days in Cape Town. Leon spent the day dealing with the normal, and highly frustrating, “technical difficulties” of our modern age. Half of you have probably already guessed that it has something to do with computers. What can be more frustrating than a computer that won’t do what you need it to do, and expect it to do, and thought you had paid for it to do? Oh yeah, discovering that it was never programmed to do that? Right. Take half of your day to discover that it actually says on our new camera’s box that its video High Def mode will not function with Mac OS 10. Then take another half to find the work-arounds, and then use the third half to figure out how to use the new software. Suffice to say that what was simple and elegant on an earlier model of the same camera is now klutzy and difficult. But the resolution and clarity of that new video are truly great. (But with my current vision, it really doesn’t make much difference.)
However, let me tell you the story of the visit to the Apple store. It is what South Africa and its people have been like for us. Go to the Sony store. Talk to the rep. He quickly shows me the literature on this particular camera and why the video is not compatible (yet) with a Mac. He’s sharp and pleasant. I just don’t like the answer. Go to the Apple store four doors down in the mall. Try to talk to the software technician. He’s booked until tomorrow at 2. It’s now 1230. He says that if I wait, he might be able to fit me in. Go to a desk, open up the computer and start trying to get to a knowledge level where I at least have coherent questions. A young salesman comes over. Asks if he can help. Tell him No for sales, I have a software issue. He asks questions. Gets involved. Figures out that another FREE bit of software can help. Shows me several new tricks of manipulating this computer as he does the other tasks. His dad is from San Diego. His grand dad was in the US Navy. The point is that (so far) everyone has been just like him: enthusiastic, friendly, pleasant, and more than good enough at what they do.
BARB: The Sony and Apple stores happened to be lost among the 483 other stores in the Victoria Wharf shopping center right across from our hotel. Leon, not being as familiar with finding your way around a mall as I am, obviously required some feminine guidance. Once we found the stores, I left him to continue his quest to understand, and make work, the interconnections of the computer and camera. With nothing to do for the rest of the afternoon, I thought that I would check out the mall, after-all, I was there.
One could get lost in this mall, but not me. I found the ‘grandmothers mecca’ - an area with probably 20 fantastic children’s clothing stores with the most adorable clothes I have ever seen. I have to admit that I am a sucker for most-adorable-children’s-clothes-stores. Needless to say, I now have Sophie’s first birthday gift (her birthday is just two days upon our return), and both her and Madeleine’s Christmas gifts. While pondering the many many cute outfits wondering how many I should buy, I kept having this nagging voice in my head (that sounded remarkably like Leon) reminding me of a new ‘rule’ that he mentioned yesterday. He told me, “You can buy anything you want, as long as you carry it”. I am assuming that he didn’t really mean it.
Tomorrow is another city day. We are headed off to a large outdoor African crafts market (Leon said that I could buy anything I want) and a few of the Museums.
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| On Table Mountain |
When we arrived at the end of the road below the mountain top, we could clearly see the top, the lack of shade any where, and the faint mountain goat trail that initially went straight up the mountain. Far up towards the top, there were switchbacks since the sloping mountain side had morphed into a cliff side. At this point, I informed Barbara that the trail looked relatively easy and I was not sure why Bob and Pete had spoken of it as they did. However, I reminded her that I was a great admirer of the type of engineering expertise required to surmount the technical challenges of a nearly vertical tramway. As a an engineer myself, I felt I needed to investigate how those difficulties were resolved with the technology of the early 1920’s . I asked her if she would mind humoring me and taking the tram up to the top instead of walking. Barb is a gracious woman and managed to indulge my request without once accusing me of wimping out (nor did she thank me).
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| On Table Mtn with False Bay in background |
After three hours of walking (btw, our new 'five finger' shoes are great hiking shoes) and enjoying the views (plus over 500 pix taken by Miss Shutterbug), we decided it was enough. I agree now with everyone who told us that Table Mountain is a must-visit place if you’re in Cape Town. One aside: it’s okay to drink the water there, but I would not recommend the food!
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| Happy Feet |
One of the troubles with traveling is adapting to the local time zone. I am still tired at the wrong times of the day, and awake in the middle of the night. Both of us have been staying up until well past midnight until we finally realize we need to rest. But last night, Barb slept that sleep of innocence (or exhaustion) that we all wish for. She was awake one moment, sound asleep the next, and even her head did not change position for the next 9 hours! I only know this because I woke eight - ten times during the night. When she comes down for breakfast, Grumpy is on his third cup of coffee trying to get the old body moving, but Barb looks like someone who just left the health spa. The now highly caffeinated Grumpy is truly envious.
Today (Monday), we stayed around the hotel, went to the V&A mall, and Barb completed the planning of our remaining five useful days in Cape Town. Leon spent the day dealing with the normal, and highly frustrating, “technical difficulties” of our modern age. Half of you have probably already guessed that it has something to do with computers. What can be more frustrating than a computer that won’t do what you need it to do, and expect it to do, and thought you had paid for it to do? Oh yeah, discovering that it was never programmed to do that? Right. Take half of your day to discover that it actually says on our new camera’s box that its video High Def mode will not function with Mac OS 10. Then take another half to find the work-arounds, and then use the third half to figure out how to use the new software. Suffice to say that what was simple and elegant on an earlier model of the same camera is now klutzy and difficult. But the resolution and clarity of that new video are truly great. (But with my current vision, it really doesn’t make much difference.)
However, let me tell you the story of the visit to the Apple store. It is what South Africa and its people have been like for us. Go to the Sony store. Talk to the rep. He quickly shows me the literature on this particular camera and why the video is not compatible (yet) with a Mac. He’s sharp and pleasant. I just don’t like the answer. Go to the Apple store four doors down in the mall. Try to talk to the software technician. He’s booked until tomorrow at 2. It’s now 1230. He says that if I wait, he might be able to fit me in. Go to a desk, open up the computer and start trying to get to a knowledge level where I at least have coherent questions. A young salesman comes over. Asks if he can help. Tell him No for sales, I have a software issue. He asks questions. Gets involved. Figures out that another FREE bit of software can help. Shows me several new tricks of manipulating this computer as he does the other tasks. His dad is from San Diego. His grand dad was in the US Navy. The point is that (so far) everyone has been just like him: enthusiastic, friendly, pleasant, and more than good enough at what they do.
BARB: The Sony and Apple stores happened to be lost among the 483 other stores in the Victoria Wharf shopping center right across from our hotel. Leon, not being as familiar with finding your way around a mall as I am, obviously required some feminine guidance. Once we found the stores, I left him to continue his quest to understand, and make work, the interconnections of the computer and camera. With nothing to do for the rest of the afternoon, I thought that I would check out the mall, after-all, I was there.
One could get lost in this mall, but not me. I found the ‘grandmothers mecca’ - an area with probably 20 fantastic children’s clothing stores with the most adorable clothes I have ever seen. I have to admit that I am a sucker for most-adorable-children’s-clothes-stores. Needless to say, I now have Sophie’s first birthday gift (her birthday is just two days upon our return), and both her and Madeleine’s Christmas gifts. While pondering the many many cute outfits wondering how many I should buy, I kept having this nagging voice in my head (that sounded remarkably like Leon) reminding me of a new ‘rule’ that he mentioned yesterday. He told me, “You can buy anything you want, as long as you carry it”. I am assuming that he didn’t really mean it.
Tomorrow is another city day. We are headed off to a large outdoor African crafts market (Leon said that I could buy anything I want) and a few of the Museums.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
Cape Town - A slow day in the sun
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| Dock House and Table Mountain |
The good news of the day for Barbara is that we went to the boat show, and returned to the hotel without buying a boat. That’s also the bad news. Both of us fell in love with some of the amazing craft we saw. For background you should know that South Africa has become a world center for construction of pleasure water craft. They are especially well known for their sailing catamarans. The workmanship is outstanding, plus the designs and layouts are often technically superior. Many of the Moorings charter boats are built here. And how do I know so much? I have lusted for a catamaran sailboat for many years. I even, in desperation, considered building one. So, why don’t I have one? For the same reason we travel in Cattle Class, (er.. um..Economy) seating on airplanes. Catamaran sailboats are sold at a real price premium. They have twice as many hulls and twice as many engines are two of the excuses/reasons I have been given. But oh, are they building some beautiful boats down here. There was one amazing 60 foot long Carbon Fiber boat that was designed to be sailed at speeds in excess of 20 knots with one hull flying out of the water (just like the 16 foot Hobie cats that many of us have sailed). But the interior was just as well designed. You could live in comfort on that boat! [Barb: This particular boat was remarkable and had a distinctive ‘airplane’ look and feel, right down to the ‘cockpit’. So that is probably one of the reasons that Leon was so enamored by it.] And the layout of the running rigging on the Leopard 39 was really cool! Here was a large sailboat with all of the complex rigging perfectly set up to be single handed from the Helm. I took pictures of that setup to try to remember it. And the next time we charter in the Caribbean, I want it to be a Leopard (Robertson & Caine) catamaran. That should be a lot of fun to sail.
But the boat show and the jet lag did me in about 3 p.m. Grumpy from yesterday has now become Sleepy. But not, Miss Energetic-and- still-Truly-Excited. No, as soon as we get back to the V&A Waterfront area, we have to go to the African Crafts shopping mall. It’s the size of a large warehouse (which it probably once was) and it was filled with these crafts. She saw and admired many wonderful and interesting items. But the memorable one for me was the guitars whose body were made out of one gallon/four liter metal cans. It was actually a good sound. [Barb’s note: But Leon reminded me that I should have brought partially empty bags, rather then overstuffed ones, so that I would have had some room for souvenirs. I did see a shop that sells suitcases but I’m not going there with him just yet...]
Back at the hotel, and Sleepy has now become Dopey. He needs a nap really bad. Barb goes to the pool to enjoy the warmth and the sun. Dopey goes to sleep.
BARB: For me, so far, the long flight and trip has been pretty easy to adjust to. I slept at least six straight hours between Dulles and Senegal while Leon claims that he may have slept for a total of three on the entire flight 30+ hr flights, and that was intermittent. I made sure that I stayed awake the remainder of the flight so that when we arrived at the hotel, I was ready for bed. It worked because I had the best, long, night’s sleep. But poor Leon, he slept like a baby, awake every two hours with difficulty getting back to sleep.
I thought that I’d use my time wisely this afternoon so while Leon was recovering from his afternoon nap, and after my time by the pool, I thought that I would get started on our week’s activities while in Cape Town and met with the concierge (but it’s hard to call Mannie a concierge because he does so much more - he’s like our own personal assistant - did we mention that this is a wonderful hotel?).
While we were waiting for our dinner to be served tonight, at one of the many great restaurants in the Victoria Wharf area across the street from the hotel, I pulled out the several tour company brochures that I had tucked in my pocket and proceeded to go over them with Leon highlighting all of the possibilities and what we could do every day (he probably was thinking “But we just got here and I’m still tired...”). Tomorrow’s plan is to wake early and after breakfast head out on one of those red double-decker city bus tours. There is a Market at Green Park that is only open on Sunday where African artisans bring their crafts. I am not anticipating any complaints from Leon - at least not until tomorrow. After all, it’s only fair because I walked around a Boat Show all day today.
The next stop on the bus will be at Table Mountain, where we will get off and do one of the hikes. Two gentlemen we met this morning after breakfast did a hike today and they said it was rather difficult - and that was the easy hike. Unfortunately, since tomorrow is Sunday, most of the shops in the down town area that the City Tour passes by will be closed so we may just have to do the remainder of tour again another day.
I don’t think that I mentioned that across the street in the Victoria Wharf area, there are over 400 shops under one roof, with other craft markets nearby. If Leon needs to rest in the afternoons after our excursions, I am thinking I have plenty to keep me busy. And I’m pretty sure a few of these shops sell suitcases.
Friday, September 23, 2011
A happy end to a long journey
Happy 64th Birthday for Leon. Once known as Sonny Boy, and Leon, then later as Ponce, when in the Navy, then Dad and now Papa.
We are now well into our journey to Cape Town, one of the Far Ends of the Earth. It has been 24 hours since we got up at the hotel and left to catch the airport shuttle. There are 5 hours to go just to get to Johannesburg, and well over 4 hours after that to get to Cape Town. Add a few hours after that to get to the hotel in Cape Town and this has been one heckuva long journey. It was planned as appx. 31 hours of travel. But that did not include the technical delay at Dulles. We lost about an hour and a half there to a false engine chip detector fault message. So far, between the two of us we have watched seven movies, and we still have eight more hours just to get to Johannesburg.
The airplane has been jam packed. They don’t call Economy seating “Cattle Class” for nothing. You really get to know your neighbors well. Although a few people got off at the intermediate stop in Dakar, Senegal, just as many people got back on to replace those that left. There is a family behind us with two small children who fortunately are good travelers. Barb jokingly asked why we weren’t in Business or First. I told her it was all her fault. If she hadn’t chosen such a cheap traveling companion, then maybe she wouldn’t be in the back of the bus with him. But since it is Economy class, perhaps I’m not really cheap, but just economical. Doesn’t economical sound much classier than cheap?
Okay -when Barb reads this, she say I sound negative. But I’m not really. It’s the normal frustrations of traveling that I am trying to describe. We live in a wonderful age when traveling can be affordable for many, many people, including us. We have to put up with being packed in tightly so the airline can make a profit at those prices. Air travel used to be dangerous and very expensive. But now it’s incredibly safe, and reasonably priced. And I feel like I, and all the people I worked with at Boeing helped enable that change. The affordability of air travel, just like the internet, has changed the world.
So, just imagine little Miss Cheerful-and-Excited going through the terminals with Mr. Grumpy, Grumpy moves at his slow Southern pace. Miss Cheerful goes into occasional hyperdrive which Grumpy couldn’t have kept up with 20 years ago. But he tries, cause she’s fun.
Now arrived at Cape Town. The hotel had champagne waiting for us. We needed it. We stuck to our usual routine, which is to “move in”. That means un-packing what we’re going to use. The hotel manager is trying to show us the room (at 11:00 pm, and we’re compulsively unpacking). It helps us feel comfortable in the new, strange place. This is a wonderful hotel and after 36 hours of total travel time, we need comfort. We’re on the V&A Waterfront in the Dock House Hotel. What they didn’t tell us is that Friday night can sound like party central outside. And South Africans seem to know how to party. But the Cape Town Boat Show is right here, just out our balcony this weekend. The last time I retired, we bought a car and spent two months driving home. This time, Barb is afraid I’ll buy a boat and take two years sailing home. And they make great boats here in South Africa!
We are now well into our journey to Cape Town, one of the Far Ends of the Earth. It has been 24 hours since we got up at the hotel and left to catch the airport shuttle. There are 5 hours to go just to get to Johannesburg, and well over 4 hours after that to get to Cape Town. Add a few hours after that to get to the hotel in Cape Town and this has been one heckuva long journey. It was planned as appx. 31 hours of travel. But that did not include the technical delay at Dulles. We lost about an hour and a half there to a false engine chip detector fault message. So far, between the two of us we have watched seven movies, and we still have eight more hours just to get to Johannesburg.
The airplane has been jam packed. They don’t call Economy seating “Cattle Class” for nothing. You really get to know your neighbors well. Although a few people got off at the intermediate stop in Dakar, Senegal, just as many people got back on to replace those that left. There is a family behind us with two small children who fortunately are good travelers. Barb jokingly asked why we weren’t in Business or First. I told her it was all her fault. If she hadn’t chosen such a cheap traveling companion, then maybe she wouldn’t be in the back of the bus with him. But since it is Economy class, perhaps I’m not really cheap, but just economical. Doesn’t economical sound much classier than cheap?
Okay -when Barb reads this, she say I sound negative. But I’m not really. It’s the normal frustrations of traveling that I am trying to describe. We live in a wonderful age when traveling can be affordable for many, many people, including us. We have to put up with being packed in tightly so the airline can make a profit at those prices. Air travel used to be dangerous and very expensive. But now it’s incredibly safe, and reasonably priced. And I feel like I, and all the people I worked with at Boeing helped enable that change. The affordability of air travel, just like the internet, has changed the world.
So, just imagine little Miss Cheerful-and-Excited going through the terminals with Mr. Grumpy, Grumpy moves at his slow Southern pace. Miss Cheerful goes into occasional hyperdrive which Grumpy couldn’t have kept up with 20 years ago. But he tries, cause she’s fun.
Now arrived at Cape Town. The hotel had champagne waiting for us. We needed it. We stuck to our usual routine, which is to “move in”. That means un-packing what we’re going to use. The hotel manager is trying to show us the room (at 11:00 pm, and we’re compulsively unpacking). It helps us feel comfortable in the new, strange place. This is a wonderful hotel and after 36 hours of total travel time, we need comfort. We’re on the V&A Waterfront in the Dock House Hotel. What they didn’t tell us is that Friday night can sound like party central outside. And South Africans seem to know how to party. But the Cape Town Boat Show is right here, just out our balcony this weekend. The last time I retired, we bought a car and spent two months driving home. This time, Barb is afraid I’ll buy a boat and take two years sailing home. And they make great boats here in South Africa!
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Packed and on our way
21 Sep.
We are now at the hotel at Sea-Tac airport. There are numerous bags around the room, and once again we have removed what was in them and are re-packing ( for the umpteenth time). We have been packing for a week now. There are some technical limitations to packing. Only two checked bags are allowed (for free). Weight must be less than 50 pounds each or pay a penalty. The overall l-w-h of the bag must be less than 62 in., or it is considered oversize luggage. There is the subjective limit of how-much-is-too-much weight and trouble to lug around an airport. And don’t forget the ever decreasing weight limit that is set by how much weight and gear can one retired person “hump”.
Think about how many times you must move the bags from the room to the bus or car, then back to the room or tent, then back to the car., etc., etc...
One major issue is that there will be three weeks of sleeping in tents, so camping gear is required. Another issue is that Cape Town weather is similar to Seattle spring weather. Think wet, cool, and windy. The desert will be hot in the day, but 40’s and 50’s in the night. And the swamps will be..., well, swampy - hot and humid. Camping clothes will be replaced by resort clothes after the tour. Then there’s Johannesburg, and the East coast, and the Garden Route to tour. So, we first put out everything on the floor and bed in the spare bedroom. We did not pack the kitchen sink. I have it on good authority that there are sinks available in South Africa.
Then I got out the two North Face Base Camp duffels. We had a great roller duffle that usually goes with those two, but it did not survive the Ecuadorean airline baggage dude that threw it against the airplane cargo compartment wall. I foolishly think that I can get everything into these two duffels. We buy organizers so that we can find our stuff in the bags. We pack, then put them into the duffel. I think we can get all of our clothes into one, and then the gear plus maybe shoes into the other. Not a chance!!
Off to the internet. Research BIG bags. Find one that is 5900 ci, and a roller bag. It’s called the “Expedition”. Look at another North Face, but get the standard roller bag. It looks huge. There are bigger bags, but they are over the 62 in oversize limits. And this one is Ginormous. I have images of all our clothes in there with empty space to spare. Maybe even the shoes and a few other items.
Back home. Start to pack. You guessed it. Not even close. Can maybe get most stuff into both bags, but most is not good enough. A suggestion that we take less stuff gets the expected incredulous stare. Everything is necessary, and each for its own good reason. I can actually sympathize. Although I yearn for the simple days of going around the world with a roll-on suitcase and a pilot’s flight bag.
Back to the web. There is a large version of the Base Camp bag. There is even an extra large version, but (you guessed it), it’s over the limit on l-w-h. Barb says that the Navy Exchange has one at a very good price. Off to the NEX and yes, it’s a bargain. (on clearance sale). Now, I am certain I have it licked. I can have two checked bags. The large Base Camp bag will ride on the other large Expedition wheeled bag. One carry-on each, and we will be set. We are actually carrying one of the Medium Base Camp bags for the overland trip, so that we can have a gear bag, a clothing bag, and a stuff-that-won’t-be-used-on-the-bus-tour bag.
Pack the bags. Yep. It all fits. Sigh of relief from Leon. Barb of course does not understand this issue. I am sure it’s a guy thing. Life should be simple and we should only carry two bags on trips. I mean I conceded and bought the REALLY big bags. But there are times when you know that the feminine term “Foolish Man” directly and specifically applies to you. You guessed it. This isn’t really all of the stuff that needs to be taken. So, I valiantly try to fit the rest. Not a chance!
Take the two large packed bags downstairs. One weighs 49.6 pounds. The other is a blessed 46 lbs.
Back upstairs, shower, travel clothes. Off to Seattle to spend the night. Did I say we are running late? Back downstairs. Pick up one bag. It feels heavier. It has been “re-arranged” by the feminine member of the household. And yes, it is now 56 pounds. Throw stuff into paper bags. Run to catch the ferry.
You see, I have a backup plan. We will re-pack at the hotel, leave the extra items at the desk to be picked up another day, and then go our merry way to Africa with only two checked bags. But then we have dinner at the hotel. And we need to get up tomorrow morning at 0400 to catch the shuttle. So “re-arranging” becomes pulling out one extra smallish bag, filling it with shoes, and other sundry extras that are light weight. Now we have three bags, but at least one of them is small and light. Can I declare that to be a partial victory? Is it really a compromise when the other party is choking as she tries not to mouth the words “I told you so”. No, but there are rewards for giving her what she wants.
VERY early the next morning, we are at the terminal. The EXPEDITION sized bag weighs 50.5 pounds. The ticket agent pretends not to notice, although the baggage guy groans as he lifts it. The LARGE Base Camp bag weighs 49.3 lbs. And the little bag weighs 8 lbs.!! SO, under the wire on weight, but are also carrying three carry-ons between us. Mine is not light since it contains some of my clothes that there was no longer room for.
But we are still smiling and laughing and now on our way.
Written by Leon, with a guy's view on things.
We are now at the hotel at Sea-Tac airport. There are numerous bags around the room, and once again we have removed what was in them and are re-packing ( for the umpteenth time). We have been packing for a week now. There are some technical limitations to packing. Only two checked bags are allowed (for free). Weight must be less than 50 pounds each or pay a penalty. The overall l-w-h of the bag must be less than 62 in., or it is considered oversize luggage. There is the subjective limit of how-much-is-too-much weight and trouble to lug around an airport. And don’t forget the ever decreasing weight limit that is set by how much weight and gear can one retired person “hump”.
Think about how many times you must move the bags from the room to the bus or car, then back to the room or tent, then back to the car., etc., etc...
One major issue is that there will be three weeks of sleeping in tents, so camping gear is required. Another issue is that Cape Town weather is similar to Seattle spring weather. Think wet, cool, and windy. The desert will be hot in the day, but 40’s and 50’s in the night. And the swamps will be..., well, swampy - hot and humid. Camping clothes will be replaced by resort clothes after the tour. Then there’s Johannesburg, and the East coast, and the Garden Route to tour. So, we first put out everything on the floor and bed in the spare bedroom. We did not pack the kitchen sink. I have it on good authority that there are sinks available in South Africa.
Then I got out the two North Face Base Camp duffels. We had a great roller duffle that usually goes with those two, but it did not survive the Ecuadorean airline baggage dude that threw it against the airplane cargo compartment wall. I foolishly think that I can get everything into these two duffels. We buy organizers so that we can find our stuff in the bags. We pack, then put them into the duffel. I think we can get all of our clothes into one, and then the gear plus maybe shoes into the other. Not a chance!!
Off to the internet. Research BIG bags. Find one that is 5900 ci, and a roller bag. It’s called the “Expedition”. Look at another North Face, but get the standard roller bag. It looks huge. There are bigger bags, but they are over the 62 in oversize limits. And this one is Ginormous. I have images of all our clothes in there with empty space to spare. Maybe even the shoes and a few other items.
Back home. Start to pack. You guessed it. Not even close. Can maybe get most stuff into both bags, but most is not good enough. A suggestion that we take less stuff gets the expected incredulous stare. Everything is necessary, and each for its own good reason. I can actually sympathize. Although I yearn for the simple days of going around the world with a roll-on suitcase and a pilot’s flight bag.
Back to the web. There is a large version of the Base Camp bag. There is even an extra large version, but (you guessed it), it’s over the limit on l-w-h. Barb says that the Navy Exchange has one at a very good price. Off to the NEX and yes, it’s a bargain. (on clearance sale). Now, I am certain I have it licked. I can have two checked bags. The large Base Camp bag will ride on the other large Expedition wheeled bag. One carry-on each, and we will be set. We are actually carrying one of the Medium Base Camp bags for the overland trip, so that we can have a gear bag, a clothing bag, and a stuff-that-won’t-be-used-on-the-bus-tour bag.
Pack the bags. Yep. It all fits. Sigh of relief from Leon. Barb of course does not understand this issue. I am sure it’s a guy thing. Life should be simple and we should only carry two bags on trips. I mean I conceded and bought the REALLY big bags. But there are times when you know that the feminine term “Foolish Man” directly and specifically applies to you. You guessed it. This isn’t really all of the stuff that needs to be taken. So, I valiantly try to fit the rest. Not a chance!
Take the two large packed bags downstairs. One weighs 49.6 pounds. The other is a blessed 46 lbs.
Back upstairs, shower, travel clothes. Off to Seattle to spend the night. Did I say we are running late? Back downstairs. Pick up one bag. It feels heavier. It has been “re-arranged” by the feminine member of the household. And yes, it is now 56 pounds. Throw stuff into paper bags. Run to catch the ferry.
You see, I have a backup plan. We will re-pack at the hotel, leave the extra items at the desk to be picked up another day, and then go our merry way to Africa with only two checked bags. But then we have dinner at the hotel. And we need to get up tomorrow morning at 0400 to catch the shuttle. So “re-arranging” becomes pulling out one extra smallish bag, filling it with shoes, and other sundry extras that are light weight. Now we have three bags, but at least one of them is small and light. Can I declare that to be a partial victory? Is it really a compromise when the other party is choking as she tries not to mouth the words “I told you so”. No, but there are rewards for giving her what she wants.
VERY early the next morning, we are at the terminal. The EXPEDITION sized bag weighs 50.5 pounds. The ticket agent pretends not to notice, although the baggage guy groans as he lifts it. The LARGE Base Camp bag weighs 49.3 lbs. And the little bag weighs 8 lbs.!! SO, under the wire on weight, but are also carrying three carry-ons between us. Mine is not light since it contains some of my clothes that there was no longer room for.
But we are still smiling and laughing and now on our way.
Written by Leon, with a guy's view on things.
Saturday, September 17, 2011
The trip begins with the planning
It is Saturday afternoon and we leave for our African adventure in just 5 1/2 days. We've made all of our reservations, printed our travel documents, made packing lists, shopped and now need to start the hard job - getting everything in a few small bags. When we arrive in Cape Town, the weather will be similar to Seattle, in the mid-60's, so we need warm clothes. But as we go further north and inland, it will be in the high 90's, so we need summer clothes. We have heard that you should put everything out that you want to pack and take half of it out. That is really really hard for me to do...
But we are excited for a trip of a lifetime to begin. We spend the first nine days touring beautiful Cape Town and the Winelands, staying in a small boutique hotel overlooking Table Mountain. After that, we'll head off on a three week photo Safari from Cape Town to Victoria Falls, traveling through Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Then we'll fly back down to South Africa for the final three weeks and spend some time in Johannesburg, travel to the east coast of South Africa, and end the trip renting a car and driving along the beautiful Garden Coast.
We will try to update with photos and tales of our adventures as we travel along.
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